West meets the East 2018"West meets the East"

Ambacht in Dracht, Textiel Factorij, Zuiderzee Museum exhibition

15 December 2017- 10 May 2018

This project is an investigation into textile trade between 17-18th century through the VOC trade route India and the Netherlands. The project aimed to reprroduce the chintz fabric from Marken village, along with the stripe women’s jacket, in today’s standards using natural techniques. The jacket and chintz were both reproduced in a contemporary framework, reflecting the investigation of pattern origins, their earlier use, current struggle of the artisans and their craft. The investigation carries deeper poetic lines which also are reflected in the journal published with the exhibition.

“Asli Hatipoglu Burger focuses in her project on the Marker costume. In the Marker costume, chintz is a popular fabric that is used in front. A Marker women’s jacket with striped sleeves and a ‘baaf’ (breastplate) with a floral pattern were taken to India to allow them to be reproduced in the traditional work-spaces. The entire process of reproduction has been recorded and forms the basis of this project. The dynamics of the route, the discovery trip, proved more important than the final product.

A thought process began on topics such as the similarities and differences between east and west in the sense of textiles, colors and patterns, and of male and female clothing. Due to the fact that craftsmen from different villages were involved in the manufacturing process, there was a new interaction and communication between the relevant workspaces. The textile craft is a means of research, communication and exchange of cultures between east and west, now and then. This makes the meaning of materials, techniques and creativity visible. The striped and bloomed patterns of Marker clothing are the starting point, but in Indian reproductions, a new form and content are obtained.” -Zuiderzee Museum 2017

If you would like to read the journal, please contact me via e-mail: asleasli@gmail.com

 
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Portrait of Sarmila, a girl of the Thar desert signifying a lost identity (stripe clothing, its lost symbolism and meaning from the past, feminine & masculine symbolism, and cultural artifacts (dothi pants, woven architectural symbolism at the sleeves of the jacket) a mix of Hindu and Muslim symbolism in textiles. Sarmila comes from a musician family that has a deep-rooted history of their music "Ravanhatta" from deep-rooted desert where Muslim and Hindu folk music combine

 
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Re-made woven striped cloth (in India) using natural dyed and handspun wool, piece of Chintz from Marken village from 17th century.

 
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Zuiderzee Museum exhibition
Photo credit: Gwenn Smit

 
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Photo credit: Gwenn Smit

 
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Photo credit: Gwenn Smit

 
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Materials used in production + wooden blocks made for chintz from the piece brought from Marken (17th century design)
Photo credit: Gwenn Smit

 
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Materials used in production + wooden blocks made for chintz from the piece brought from Marken (17th century design)
Photo credit: Gwenn Smit

 
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Pipar city, Dabu (mud-resist) artisans in action.

 
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Pit loom weaving with artisans in Phalodi village, UMBVS weavers organization

 
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Introducing onion-peel dye to the artisans, who have never imagined possibilities within their surrounding

 
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Onion dyed yarns introduced in both villages

 
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100 year old wooden teak blocks from the archive

 
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Re-making new prints using old ancestral blocks

 
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Making personalized fabrics by the makers (the son -on the far right of the photo- has never touched a block before I asked him)

 
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